3. Day 3. Spittal of Glenshee to Kirkton of Glenisla (27.34km)

After a superb breakfast at the castle, we set out for day 3 of our adventure. The sun was really hot by 9am, so smothered in suncream and hats on, we set off. Again, we had been assured of an easier walk today, and after the 1.5 mile walk back down the Dalmunzie track we arrived at the start of today’s route. Rather confusingly, the signpost clearly said 13 miles to Glenisla, yet the signpost we’d seen at the other end of the village had said 10 miles! I know which one we were hoping for, but as usual, will manage our expectations accordingly 🤣

Setting out to Glenisla

The walk started out along glen shee, across agricultural land, gently rolling countryside and through cooling woods. It was feeling very hot, and quite slow going. Signage wasn’t great in part (something we’d read about before arriving), but with a couple of minor deviations we eventually arrived at the end of the glen. 

Setting off down Glen Shee

Walking through Glen Shee

Glen Shee

Glenshee

More beautiful gorse

Not sure whether it was the extreme temperatures, or the poor signage, but by lunchtime we were both full of moans and groans 🤣 My feet were quite uncomfortable, and I was regretting having brought my hiking boots rather than my walking shoes. Not really knowing what the terrain would be like I had opted for the former, but my shoes would have been more comfortable, and certainly adequate for the job. Perhaps not so though if we hadn’t had such dry ground - boggy conditions would have been much more challenging 😥 Dave was also complaining about his feet, but his main discomfort was his shoulder. Interesting when we did a little comparison of the weight of our packs - despite Dave’s being of greater volume than mine, my backpack actually felt heavier! So a little redistribution occurred. Not sure this was the outcome Dave had been hoping for 🤣

A well earned rest

Reaching the end of the Glen the climb began! Wanting to get a bit of that done before lunch, we pressed onwards and upwards. Not only was it a climb, but we were totally exposed to the sun too. It certainly felt like the hottest day so far. Finding a lovely shaded place to rest under some pine trees, we had our makeshift picnic of oatcakes, humus and cheese - delicious, but then perhaps anything would have at this stage 🤣 Pressing on we passed by the tiny hamlet of Forter, and Forter castle, accompanied yet again by the call of cuckoos along the way. 

Hamlet of Forter

Old postbox in the bridge at Forter

Forter Castle 

We knew today was going to be long, and we now had another significant climb ahead, this time over open countryside, which fantastic views up towards the eastern Cairngorms. Reaching the top was a relief 🥲 All down hill after this, but still another 4 miles!  Our feet were really aching, but passing the crystal clear lochs and beautiful gentle countryside as we descended into Glenisla kept us going.

Eastern Cairngorms 

Eastern Cairngorms 

Descending into Glenisla

The long descent into Glenisla

Eventually we arrived, hobbling, at the small village of Glenisla, our base for the night - the Glenisla Hotel. We’d had notification the day before that the hotel door would be open, and that our room key would be waiting for us on the table inside. Not having read much about the place before we arrived, we didn’t really know what to expect. Isobel, whom I’d communicated with prior to arrival, suddenly appeared and explained the setup. 

Glenisla Hotel - oldest Coaching Inn in Scotland 

No idea of the significance of the tartan car 🤣

A few years ago the Hotel, believed to be the oldest Coaching Inn in Scotland, was going to be sold, and converted into private housing. Isobel and her Husband, both extremely passionate about keeping the place alive, stepped in and bought it. They (together with local support) run the Inn as a not for profit venture. They live in a caravan in the field outside, and the room rental rates only cover the upkeep of the old place - all running costs and repairs. No profit is made, and no wages taken. It’s all for the love of the place and trying to keep an old institution alive ❤️ Understandably there are no staff to wait on. Dinner was a self service choice from the freezer (we did know about this in advance 😃), with a lovely selection of beers, wines, crisps and chocolates from the honesty bar. All was great for us. This was just what we needed, some food and a drink before flopping into bed. Knowing in advance that there was nowhere around to purchase food for our walk tomorrow, I’d communicated with Isobel who promptly offered to buy in some supplies for us. These duly arrived in the evening, bread, cheese, roast chicken and salad 😃 Really kind of Isobel to buy this in, and even kinder that she didn’t want to take any money for it! Obviously we weren’t going to let that happen, and willingly paid a small additional contribution towards the upkeep of the place.

It had been another great day. Certainly the hottest we’d had so far. The walk traversed a range of landscapes, footpaths, small roads and ancient tracks. Everywhere was so peaceful, just the cuckoos and swirling curlews to accompany us, and beautiful little oyster catchers racing around the fields. We did well to manage our expectations today - it certainly wasn’t an easy walk, but it may have felt more tough due to the extreme temperatures and our aching feet. Hoping a good night’s sleep will sort everything out for Day 4 tomorrow 🤞🤣