5. Days 5 & 6 - Alyth to Bamff - The beaver rewilding estate (9.92 km)

Our plan today was to break the last leg of the journey back to Blairgowrie, and visit the eco beaver rewilding estate at Bamff, a couple of miles from Alyth. But before we set off, we were treated to an absolutely delicious breakfast at Tigh Na Leigh. Karen was busy making granola yesterday when we arrived, and hearing that it was one of her specialties, we couldn’t resist trying it. It was absolutely delicious! Dave opted for a full Scottish breakfast to follow, and I chose the delicious fried mushrooms with thyme on sourdough- wonderful! 

Looking forward to breakfast 

Delicious mushrooms on toast

The Cateran Trail from Alyth actually goes through the Bamff estate. We’d read about the accommodation options there, and had opted for the Hideaway cabin, which overlooks some of the beaver pools. As all self catering, we’d chatted with Louise (the owner) before we set off about the challenges of carrying all food provisions for a couple of days, as we were arriving on foot. Louise didn’t hesitate, and immediately offered to get some shopping in for us - all I needed to do was send a shopping list! So, stocking up on a few extras ourselves (red wine and cheese 🤣) at the coop on leaving Alyth, we set off, back up the big hill we’d walked down yesterday 🤣 It was another really hot day, and climbing steeply through the gorse was knackering! Probably the weight of the wine in the bag didn’t help 🤣

Walking down the Den O Alyth

Marking the changing landscape over time

Leaving Alyth

Abundant gorse

Extremely hot on the hillside!

Arriving at Bamff was delightful. The whole estate is given over to rewilding, with the beavers first being introduced over 20 years ago. We quickly found our Hideaway cabin, found the beaver chewed wooden key fob under the step, and promptly flopped on the bed and fell asleep. We were woken a little while later by a charming young Spanish woman, working as housekeeper there, bringing our grocery shopping . There had only been a few basics on the list, and unfortunately she’d managed to forget some, but she was totally charming and went to raid her own food cupboard to find missing items 🤣

The Hideaway cabin was extremely rustic, but comfortable - all the basics there, a step up from camping, and the bed, constructed out of beaver chewed wood, was one of the comfiest we’d had all week! Our outside privy was a compost toilet - all quite an experience 😃

Gateway to Bamff

Finding our cabin

Our cabin, & the beaver wood bed

Definitely won’t be needing the log burning stove on this occasion 🤣

The compost privy

Beaver chewed key fob

The Hideaway cabin

Spent a wonderful couple of days chilling out here, all so totally peaceful. Part of the rewilding venture has been to introduce a herd of exmoor ponies, and a group of wild pigs as well -  all intended to develop and live wildly, without human intervention. But the highlight for us, and the reason we first planned to visit here, was the beaver population, first introduced here in 2002. Being nocturnal creatures, the beavers come out to work and play from around 7 o clock in the evening. Our Hideaway cabin overlooked some of the beaver pools and dams, so walking out in the evening to catch sight of them doing their thing was an absolute delight. They are actually quite chubby creatures when on land, but seem to swim gracefully, very streamlined, along the waterways. The beaver dams appear incredible feats of construction - goodness knows how they manage to transport such huge logs, and the surrounding woods are full of evidence of beaver activity - huge tree trunks chewed in half! It was incredible watching one beaver gracefully swimming along, head just above the water, then clambering out to navigate getting over the dam, to carry on swimming down the waterways- beautiful  ❤️

Welcome to the beaver world!

What teeth they must have!

Swimming so gracefully 

Chomping on the grass

Intricate dam 

Just keeping head above water 🤣

Beaver dam

One evening the herd of wild pigs came trotting down the path as we were watching the beavers - huge creatures! Not sure who was most surprised - me at being faced by them, or them coming across humans 🤣 Anyway, they seemed rather cautious, thankfully, and gave us a wide berth 🤣 Another magical moment ❤️

Enjoying an evening stroll

A good log to rub yourself on

Wandering around the estate was lovely. The ponies too were adorable. Roaming wildly across the whole estate, we came across them a number of times. Some were quite inquisitive, but others keen to keep their distance. The young foals were extremely lively, and seemed to take off at some speed running across the fields - they all looked so totally free, and happy 😃 

Wild ponies

Wild ponies

 

Wild ponies

Wild ponies

The wildlife experience at Bamff was fabulous, second to none. Such a privilege to be there amongst all the rewilding that is taking place. Really special to see the beavers swimming along, clambering over dams, and feasting on lovely green grass. Staying in the cabin felt really authentic and special - really close to the wildlife action - again, a real privilege to be able to observe these creatures in such natural habitats ❤️

So tomorrow we leave Bamff and head back to Blairgowrie - the last day of the walk. Sad to be leaving, but excited to be finishing our walk. Planning on an early start in the morning, so turning in for the night now 😃

 

Main lodge at Bamff

Pea hens roaming freely 

Honesty shop & cafe

Dinner with a view

The Hideaway